11 November, Shiokaze 5 Train to Matsuyama
Yesterday, our first truly wet day saw us on a five hour return train journey through the mountains to the western Honshu city of Matsue. We left Okayama in the rain and it just got worse as the day progressed. A bit of a shame, as the autumn colours increased as we ventured further into the mountains and small villages emerged from the mist. Matsue boasts a fine castle with one of the few remaining original castle keeps. We elected to take the tourist circuit bus to avoid the rain and so were treated to an extended tour of the back streets of Matsue!
Okayama itself is quite a nice city with wide, tree-lined streets and, of course, a castle. We have based ourselves here for a few days to do a few day trips that are a bit off the regular Western tourist trail. As we write, we are crossing the enormous bridge that island hops between the main island of Honshu and Shikoku. It's a much nicer day than yesterday and we are amazed at the mile after mile of heavy industry which seems to be creating almost no pollution. The air is clean and the sky clear. Yet again, we are the only Westerners on the train. Yesterday, amongst the thousands of locals out for a miserable rainy jaunt to Matsue, we saw only one other Westerner the whole day.
Away from the coast, Shikoku opens up to intensive farming. Late crops of vegetables and rice are ripening in a race to beat the encroaching winter chill. Farms are extremely small, with most plots looking to be no more than an acre or two. Yet the farming villages and the individual houses are indicative of a fairly wealthy life style. Food prices are not unusually high in Japan and export is not a factor, so there must be a fair bit of heavy government subsidising going on.
After shoving our bags in a luggage locker on arrival at Matsuyama, within minutes we were on a connecting train to the small town of Uchiko, another 25 minutes away. What a pleasant spot! Walking about a small Japanese town is a real pleasure, especially today (Monday) when most of the usual array of tourist stalls were closed after a hectic weekend. All we needed to do here was walk around a street that has been preserved in all its 19th century grandeur. Because we had the place fairly much to ourselves and it was an extremely nice day, this was a relaxing highlight to a long, but interesting train trip.
For lunch today, we did as we have done every day on our three trips to Japan, hunted out a Lawsons Station. Lawsons is, in Western terms, a convenience store. 7-11, Family Mart and a range of smaller players offer convenience store services all over Japan, and in some parts of China. Unlike their Western counter parts, their prices are not as high in comparison to the larger supermarkets. In Japan, convenience stores offer a much wider range than we experience at home. In addition to what we would normally expect, these shops offer all of the more basic survival needs as well - sandwiches, packaged salads, Japanese food, hot food, coffee and, most important, beer. We usually grab a packet of sandwiches and a salad or a tray of sushi for between $2.50 - $3.50. The really amazing thing about these stores is that their fresh food is delivered every day all over Japan. To get some grip on what a logistic miracle this is, you need to know that Lawsons alone has more than 10,000 outlets across Japan.
Settled in the APA Hotel, Matsuyama, right across the road from Matsuyama Castle, we are all set for a castle visit and a trip back to Okayama tomorrow. For the princely sum of $77, we have a great view of the castle as well.
12 November, APA Hotel, Okayama.
Back in Okayama after our overnighter in Matsuyama.
The Matsuyama Castle was probably the best we have seen in Japan. Mind you, the weather always helps. It was another beautiful day, though the autumn chill is biting more each day. The castles that we have been visiting have all been mostly rebuilt or significantly restored since WWII, but the restoration work has always been faithful to the original. The Japanese have a great commitment to preserving their culture and, as with everything they do, it is done to the highest standards.
On a much less grand scale of workmanship, the hotel we stayed in last night had a tiled bathroom, a little unusual in the sort of hotels we stay in where most bathrooms are 'drop-in' pre-fab cubes. The trade work was near perfect. We have stayed in hotels in Europe and especially in the US, where the equivalent work looked like it had been done by highly skilled monkeys.
We are not averse to dramatic changes of plan on our travels. In a large motorhome, travelling through Germany in 1987, with three young children in tow, we made a spur of the moment decision to go to East Berlin. It was the depths of winter and well before the Wall came down. Our recent choice was nothing so dramatic. With a few days up our sleeves, we have decided to make a dash north to Tokyo for lunch and a dinner. Not too sure of the distance, but it is close to 4 hours on a Shinkansen travelling at close to 300 kms per hour.
And.. just never miss a Decoy Smork!
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